Type case, Düsseldorf

"Why the "Setzkasten" lost its star is beyond me. The standard was consistently high. Not much has changed in terms of the creativity that characterised the cuisine in the past. At one point or another, for example with the dessert or the jus with the meat, it perhaps overshoots the mark a little or could do with some fine-tuning. But in terms of craftsmanship, it's all very good and I prefer it that way. It's anything but boring and as you're sitting at the source, you can expect the best products. We buy a few of them afterwards before we head back home. However, the luxury meat for more than 1,000 euros is not one of them." (Published in July 2024)

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