Kitchen W8, London

"Whether everything we were served during this set menu was worthy of a star remains to be seen, as luxury products, compositional masterpieces, acrobatic textures and a filigree plate look were not necessarily part of the culinary programme. But you don't have to think about this question for long when everything on the plate is executed with such a pleasing (uncomplicated) level of craftsmanship and flavour as here! Add to this a well-coordinated wine pairing, relaxed and friendly service and a friendly atmosphere and you have the upmarket "neighbourhood restaurant" that can be found in many London districts, which you often look for in German cities too, but unfortunately hardly ever find at this level (because this type of restaurant has little in common with the notorious "Italian on the corner" that we often encounter here...)." (Published in August 2024)

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