Ox & Klee, Cologne

"The menu at Ox & Klee offers at least as much entertainment as it does culinary substance. While at the beginning of the menu the pendulum swings a little too much in the direction of visuals over flavour, in the second half it fortunately goes in the other direction with clearly recognisable, good flavourful substance. You can't deny the Ox & Klee a decent two-star performance - even if you are sceptical about too many visual gimmicks and stagings. Especially if you are travelling alone, as I was that evening, you can absolutely enjoy the playful element and not only experience a very good menu, but also be entertained in the best possible way if you want to get involved. For me, the high staging factor leaves a small emotional gap. The atmosphere in the room is also a little too cool for me, a little too black and a little too stylish, but the friendly kitchen and service team, who are jointly responsible for the presentation of the food, make up for this. I have to admit that I thought long and hard before my trip about whether I would go to Ox & Klee or another restaurant in Cologne, but I can definitely say that I enjoyed my visit. But I also know I'm definitely not always in the mood for so much staging." (Published in August 2024)

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